Minneapolis Nordeast

Editor note. I recently completed a "short course" on Minneapolis' Northeast neighborhood from the University of St. Thomas' Selim Center. Selim Center is a community outreach program with a well targeted charter - "for learning in later years". This class was part of a series on Twin City neighborhoods, this a fascinating exploration of "Nordeast", its history, architecture and emergence as an artist district. The class was held at two historic Nordeast churches, St. Anthony of Padua and St. Hedwig's. Among the attendees were numerous long standing Nordeast residents, adding a great deal of color to the class. I am certainly no expert on Nordeast, but I thought I would share some of the things I learned.

Minneapolis Nordeast 

Northeast Minneapolis, affectionately known as "Nordeast" is a wonderful example of the melting pot that has built America.  

Nordeast was originally part of independent city of St. Anthony, situated on the east side of the Mississippi at St. Anthony Falls. St. Anthony was established in the 1840’s by Franklin Steele, the sutler of Fort Snelling, the downriver fort and military reservation situated at the confluence of the Mississippi and Minnesota rivers. In 1872, St. Anthony was annexed by Minneapolis and the area “across the river” was designated as the “Eastside District”, which in turn was divided into Southeast, now dominated by University of Minnesota, and north, across Central Ave, Northeast. Although any Minneapolis address with a “NE” designation is a part of Nordeast, the heart of Nordeast lies between Marshall on the west, Stinson on the east, 37th on the north & Central on the south.  

Nordeast is different from any other Minneapolis neighborhood. 

First, it has an architectural character that no other part of Minneapolis can claim. Historically significant buildings abound. This is largely due to the fact that the Nordeast never reached a level of affluence to succumb to "progress" - the “teardown and rebuild” craze that affected the west side of the river. Buildings were and are continuously reused and thus (thankfully) preserved.

Nordeast neighborhoods were built up before zoning laws separated residential and industrial so neighborhoods mingle with industrial sites - breweries, lumber mills, and flour mills. People wanted to live within walking distance of their work or later (1880's) on or near a street-car line.  

Editor note: A sidebar. The man behind the explosion of street-car lines in the Twin Cities, which at one time stretched from Stillwater to Excelsior with over 500 miles of line, was none other than Thomas Lowry, more famously known for the Minnesota village which bears his name.

Most historic Nordeast buildings near the river date from the 1890's or later because the "great fire of 1893" destroyed 23 square blocks of Nordeast , from Nicollet Island to Marshall from 6th to 15th.   Along the river, flour milling, lumbering and breweries were the dominate industries, all susceptible to a spark. The fire started on Nicollet Island and soon leaped to Boom Island, destroying acres of stacked lumber - millions of board feet. A firestorm soon raged with flames soaring 300' in the air, overwhelming firefighters.  Read an interesting NY TImes account.


The Minneapolis Brewing Co (later Grain Belt Brewery) with is massive brick construction was the only building in the 23 blocks to survive the flames. Happily, the brewery stored kegs of beer in caves along the river so there was at least the ability to commiserate after the destruction.  Only one man died, a spectator, from a heart attack. 






After the fire, portions of the devastated area were soon taken over by Soo Line for its railroad marshaling yard, still massive and thriving today, spurred on by the North Dakota oil boom.

Nordeast was heavily industrial, offering laboring jobs in lumber, milling and brewing. The plentiful jobs spawned several waves of immigrants. A first wave of Scandinavian, Irish, German was followed by Polish, Ukrainian, Russian, Italian, Slavonian, Finnish, Jewish, ... The immigrants built homes within walking or easy streetcar rides to places of employment. These residents cherish their neighborhood and ethnic traditions.  In the 1960's federal approval was granted for freeway I335 to cut from I94 to 35W crossing the river at Plymouth / 8th Avenue. Right of way and acquisition of property began in 1964, but a neighborhood revolt garnered the support of Mayor Don Fraser, managing to stop it and the project was cancelled in 1972. Thank's be.  

Nordeast is an aggregation of 14 different neighborhoods, with a greater proportion of family homes than anywhere in the Twin Cities, preserving the ethnic and cultural traditions. This unique ethnic mix is the reason Nordeast is known for “a church on every corner”. Each denomination coupled with its ethnicity yields a separate parish. So you find: Baptist, Swedish Lutheran, Norwegian Lutheran, German Lutheran, German Catholic, Russian Orthodox, Greek Orthodox, Ukrainian Catholic, Polish Catholic, Lebanese Catholic, Mosque ..

Patrol Limits

Another factor in Nordeast's appeal was its designation as one of the few legal "alcohol districts" in the city of Minneapolis, known as Patrol Districts. These districts were in place until the early 70's. In the heyday of the WTCU and the Temperance Movement, the city of Minneapolis decided to limit the "moral contagion of saloons" and in 1884, established “Patrol Limits” which established areas of the city where liquor could be served but mandated that any establishment serving on-sale liquor must be within a 2 minute walk from a police precinct.  This allowed a foot patrol officer to blow his whistle to summon assistance and have it heard at the station.  



Wonderful ethnic bars & restaurants & delis populate the area.  Mayslack's, established in the 50's by the former pro wrestler, Stan Mayslack, made famous the mountainous roast beef sandwich with a special garlic sauce stored in the cellar in mayonnaise jars. The Ideal Diner is right out of the 50's complete with 14 stools at the counter. Don't miss Emily's Lebanese Deli on University. Or Kramarczuk's. Or pyrohy/pierogi lunch ever Friday at St. Constantine's Ukrainian Catholic Church.

Chance Bar

One place deserving special note is the "First Chance Last Chance Bar" on Broadway (now known as NE Palace Bar). This place touted itself, depending on which way you were walking, as the ‘“first chance” or “last chance” to get a drink in Minneapolis.  

And of course, micro-breweries. Worth a road trip.

Sadly, perhaps the signature Nordeast landmark, Nye's Polonaise Room, is scheduled for the wrecking ball in 2016. If you've never been there, get there soon for a great dining experience and unique atmosphere - and offer a final good bye.

NE Minneapolis Art District

Northrup King, Q.Arma, California, NW Casket, Thorp, Grain Belt

In 2003, Minneapolis designated the area east of the Mississippi and bordered by 26th, Broadway & Central NE as the Northeast Minneapolis Art District. There are at least 700 working artists living and working in the area, many in studios housed in former industrial buildings: the Northrup King Building, Northwest Casket Building, Thorp building, Grain Belt Studios, California Building, Q.Arma building ...






Each May, the Northeast Minneapolis Art Association (NEMAA) sponsors "Art-A-Whirl", the largest open studio tour in the country. A great opportunity to tour studios , galleries and purchase art of the Nordeast. Check it out - May 20-22, 2016.  

Sheridan Veterans Memorial Park

And while you're in the neighborhood, stop by Sheridan Veterans Memorial Park, a wonderful memorial to veterans of all wars Minnesotans have fought in and doubling as a public art space.







My favorite way to explore Nordeast is by bicycle. The bike-friendly area abounds with bike trails and city streets designated as "bikeways". Here is one recent meandering ride. Join me for the continuation next spring.

I close on a cautionary note. Nordeast is under development pressure as witnessed by Nye's being replaced by condos. I fear the "gentrification" seen in the Warehouse District, Dinkytown and St. Anthony Main will creep into Nordeast. I hope the area can once again resist the voracious developers.


Copyright © 2015 Dave Hoplin